This is Chandler's Mill build by J. Coplan. He used the Stone & Cement method for modeling with #54 KS stone. Initially, he had installed our 8" wooden wheel. When we developed the Fitz wheel, he built and installed that 6" wheel. He also incorporated some design adjustments. He wanted the movement of the wheel to be slower and got together with an HO modeller (Joe) who also machines stuff. He made a flywheel, and a 1-piece shaft, with 2 diameters. (actually, a form-fitting sleeve that’s lock-tited into place). The shaft rides in plain sleeve bearings made of delrin, or acetal, or some other industrial plastic. I sprayed the bearings with bicycycle chain lubricant, which evaporates, leaving a parrafin-like film, that should be ok on the plastic. Even with the lubricant, little bit of friction provided by the sleeve bearings was actually welcome: he's been able switch from quarter-inch to half-inch hose, to feed the sluice, without the millwheel spining like an airplane propeller. He likes having more than a trickle of water. The flywheel keeps the RPMs of the wheel nice and constant. He may have to replace the bearings once a year – but hey, the prototype did the same. They cost a buck apiece from Igus. (Shown below) Photos use with permission. Description is from an email. Thanks.


The wheel came together nicely. A couple of tips:
 During assembly: Lay the wheel flat and use a paint can as a weight as the glue dries.
I did this in between inserting each paddle, and again when adding the outer rims. I used toothpicks to assure alignment of the outer rims, but I nipped them off flush to the plastic, so the paint can could lay flat against the wheel. I used airplane glue out of a tube to attach the outer rims. This gave me more working time than the watery acrylic cement. It also acts as a gap filler. Again, I like it much better than CA for this job, because the plastic actually fuses into one solid piece. Paint the wheel and the 2 “spiders” (after gluing on the hubs) *before* gluing the spiders to the wheel itself. Use bits of tape on the wheel and the ends of the spiders to mask off the contact areas for better bonding when you do glue them. Painting the major sub-assemblies lets you avoid getting paint on the nuts & bolts. I use a chemical blackener on the nuts & bolts to darken them, and make them stand out. So I didn’t want to get it all put together, and then start spraying. Also: Painting the inner drum of the wheel is a lot easier *before* the spiders are in the way! J
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